Brandade de Morue
Fresh cod poached and beaten with warm olive oil, garlic and potato into a smooth, creamy mash, then grilled until the top is golden and crisp. The inside stays soft and rich, the garlic runs all the way through it. It’s rustic yet refined, it's the southern coast of France in one dish.
1
sieve fine, for checking bones
1. Poach the Cod
Lay the cod in a saucepan with the bay leaf and halved onion, cover with cold water and add a generous pinch of sea salt. Bring to a bare simmer, never a boil, and poach gently for 10 minutes. Take the pan off the heat and let the cod cool in its liquid for 5–10 minutes to keep it tender. Lift it out, drain, and discard the bay leaf and onion.
2. Flake the cod
Flake the cod thoroughly with a fork, checking carefully for bones as you go.
3. Cook and mash the potatoes
Peel and cut the potatoes into even chunks, boil in salted water for 15–20 minutes until completely tender, then drain well. Mash while still hot and stir in the crushed garlic straight away, so it mellows in the warm potato.
4. Combine and Beat
Combine the flaked cod and mashed potato in a saucepan over very low heat. Warm the olive oil and milk gently. Drizzle in half the warm oil and half the warm milk, stirring vigorously, then gradually add the rest. Taste and adjust with salt, black pepper and a squeeze of lemon. The texture should be creamy but still retain a bit of flake, this is a rustic dish, not baby food.
5. Grill and Serve
Spoon the brandade into an ovenproof dish and place under a hot grill for 3–5 minutes, until the top is golden, bubbling and crisp. Scatter with chopped parsley and serve immediately.
- Warm both the oil and the milk before adding them, or the mixture can split.
- Add the oil gradually rather than all at once, exactly as you would for a mayonnaise.
- Can be assembled ahead and kept in the fridge, then grilled just before serving. Stir in a splash of warm milk if it has thickened.