Moules frites
Plump mussels steamed in white wine, garlic and shallots until they open, in a buttery, garlicky broth that smells like the sea. The mussels are sweet and tender and the broth is rich enough to dip your fries into it! This is the Belgian-French seaside classic.

1. Prepare the fries
Slice the potatoes into thin chips and soak in cold water for at least 30 minutes to remove the starch. Drain and pat thoroughly dry with a clean tea towel, then toss in the plain flour. Heat the oil to 160°C and fry the chips in batches for 5–6 minutes, until pale and soft but not coloured. Remove with a slotted spoon and cool on a rack.
2. Clean the mussels
Place the mussels in a bowl of cold water and scrub gently. Pull off the beards and discard any that are cracked or refuse to close when tapped. Rinse well.
3. Sweat the shallots and garlic
In your largest pot, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the shallots and cook gently for 2 minutes, then the garlic for another minute. Don't let them brown.
4. Build the marinière base
Turn up the heat, pour in the white wine, and let it bubble hard for a minute.
5. Steam the mussels
Tip in the mussels and clamp the lid on tight. Shake the pot, then steam for 4–5 minutes, shaking again halfway, until the shells have opened. Discard any that stay closed.
6. Finish the fries
While the mussels steam, heat the oil to 190°C. Return the chips and fry for 2–3 minutes until golden and crisp. Drain on kitchen paper and salt immediately.
7. Serve it up
Off the heat, stir the chopped parsley and black pepper into the broth, adding the crème fraîche if using. Ladle the mussels into deep bowls with plenty of broth, and serve with a pile of hot chips.
- The old rule is to eat mussels only in months with an "R" in them, roughly September to April. In warmer months they spawn and the meat gets thin. Farming and refrigeration mean you'll find them year-round, but the cooler months give you the fattest shells.
- Floury potatoes are best for chips. The high starch content gives you a crisp crust and a fluffy interior.
- The first fry can be done hours ahead. Do the second fry just before serving.