April 6, 2026
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I lived in the Netherlands for a while, and a savoury cake like this was never on any menu. Which is funny, because in France it’s absolutely the thing to make for apéro, for a lunch in the garden, or to throw in a bag for a picnic. The culture shift is real.
And courgettes are so good for this. They add a bit of sweetness to everything, and you get to eat your vegetables while feeling like you’re having cake. Everyone wins!
So here’s my courgette cake. It’s easy, it feeds six or eight, and it’s better the next day, which makes it one of the most useful things in my summer repertoire.
Table of Contents
Where courgette cake comes from
Cake salé, which just means savoury cake, is a French take on the English cake, and the modern version took off in the 1970s alongside the fashion for apéritifs dînatoires and buffets. (There’s an older ancestor, the cake aux olives, kicking about from the 19th century, but the savoury-loaf-for-apéro we all know is a 70s thing.) It caught on fast, and it’s easy to see why. You take a basic cake batter, leave out the sugar, and fold in savoury bits. What you get sits somewhere between a crustless quiche and a really good savoury loaf.
This particular combination, courgette, smoked salmon and dill, is pure 1980s and 90s French entertaining. And the pairing of smoked salmon with dill is as old as the hills: in French cooking, dill or tarragon are the herbs for smoked salmon, and you find them together in everything from blinis to tartines to quiches. The fresh, slightly aniseedy note cuts through the rich salmon exactly as it should, and the courgette adds a mild sweetness that holds it all together.
Ingredients
- Courgettes – Grated, then cooked first (this is the key step, see below). They bring moisture and a mild sweetness. Cook the water out or the loaf goes soggy.
- Smoked salmon – Offcuts are cheaper and work brilliantly here, since you’re cutting it up anyway. Smoked trout is a lovely swap.
- Eggs – The structure of the batter.
- Plain flour and baking powder – The bones of the cake, 120g flour gives a moist loaf; more gives a firmer one.
- Butter – Melted, for richness. I love using good French butter here, though olive oil works too and keeps it moist longer, which is handy for picnics.
- Whole milk – Swap a bit for crème fraîche if you want it richer.
- Comté or Gruyère – Grated, for a melty, nutty savoury depth. Comté is my favourite pick of the two.
- Dill – Fresh, for that classic salmon pairing. Chives work if dill’s not your thing.
- Nutmeg, salt and pepper – The seasoning, but go easy on the salt, since the salmon and cheese bring plenty already.
How to make courgette cake
1. Cook the courgettes
Grate the courgettes, then soften a chopped shallot in a little oil before adding them with a pinch of salt. Cook for a good 10 to 12 minutes, stirring now and then, until they’re tender and most of the water has cooked off. This is important because you’re driving out the moisture that would otherwise sog the loaf, and concentrating the flavour while you’re at it. When the pan looks dry rather than watery, you’re there. Set them aside to cool, because hot courgette would start cooking your eggs later.
2. Make the batter
Whisk the eggs and milk, then whisk in the melted butter (also cooled slightly, or it’ll scramble the eggs). Add the flour and baking powder and whisk to a smooth, thick batter. Season well with pepper and nutmeg, and go easy on the salt. It’ll look very thick at this stage, and that’s right, the courgettes loosen it in a minute.
3. Fold everything in
Add the cooled courgettes, the salmon, the grated cheese and the dill, and fold gently with a wooden spoon. Don’t overmix, because you want to see distinct pieces of salmon and flecks of green throughout, not a uniform paste. The batter will be thick and chunky, which is exactly how it should look.
4. Bake
Placethe batter into a lined loaf pan, smooth the top, and bake at 180°C (160°C fan) for about 40 minutes, until golden and a skewer comes out clean. You’re after a properly golden top with a slight crack down the middle. If it’s browning too fast, lay a bit of foil over it for the last 10 to 15 minutes. Cool it in the loaf pan for 10 minutes before turning out, or it can break while it’s hot.
Tools for this recipe
Check out my favorite kitchen essentials and cookware!
- Use a sturdy grater to effortlessly grate your cheese.
- I use my trusty, affordable loaf pan for this recipe.
- I use a cooling rack to let the courgette cake set before slicing.
Tips for success
- Cook the courgettes properly dry: this is the single most important thing. Sauté them until the pan looks dry, not glistening. Wet courgettes make a wet cake, and no amount of extra baking fixes it.
- Fold the salmon in last, gently: add it right at the end and don’t overwork it. It only needs to warm through in the oven. Overcooked, it turns dry and harsh.
- Season the batter, not just to taste: the salmon and cheese are salty, so go easy on salt, but be generous with pepper and nutmeg, since the batter itself is bland without them.
- Don’t overmix once the fillings are in: you want visible chunks of salmon and flecks of dill, not a smooth paste. Fold just until combined.
- Grate your own cheese: pre-grated cheese is coated in anti-caking powder and won’t melt as cleanly into the batter. Instead, grate it fresh off a block.
How to store it
- This is a proper make-ahead recipe. In fact it’s better the next day, once everything’s settled, so making it the evening before is genuinely a good idea. Keep it covered in a rectangular cake container at room temperature for a day, or in the fridge for up to three.
- It holds well at room temperature for several hours, which is exactly why it’s so good for picnics and buffets. Slice it there rather than before you leave, and it won’t dry out.
- It also freezes brilliantly for up to 3 months. Slice it first, wrap the slices well, and freeze, then you can pull out a piece at a time. Thaw at room temperature, or warm gently in a low oven to bring back that just-baked softness.
Variations
- Winter version: leeks and vegetarian lardons: same batter, different filling. Soften leeks down and fold through with crisp vegetarian lardons for a cold-weather cake.
- Spinach and goat’s cheese: wilt and squeeze the spinach dry (same moisture rule as the courgette), then fold through with crumbled goat’s cheese.
- Roasted peppers and feta: a more Mediterranean take, sweet peppers against salty feta.
- Add lemon zest: a little grated lemon zest lifts the salmon version nicely.
- Swap the herb: not a dill fan? Chives work well, or tarragon, which is the other classic French herb for salmon.
FAQ
What is cake salé?
Cake salé is a French savoury cake: a basic loaf batter with the sugar left out and savoury ingredients folded in, like cheese, vegetables, salmon or lardons. It sits somewhere between a crustless quiche and a savoury loaf, and it’s a staple of French apéro and picnic spreads.
Why is my courgette cake soggy?
Almost always because the courgettes weren’t cooked first. Raw grated courgette holds a lot of water that releases during baking. Sauté it with a shallot until the pan looks dry before adding it to the batter, and the loaf comes out moist rather than wet.
Can I make courgette cake ahead of time?
Yes, and it’s better for it. The flavours settle overnight, so making it the day before is ideal. It keeps three days in the fridge and freezes for up to three months. Slice before freezing so you can take out one piece at a time.
Can I use smoked trout instead of salmon?
Absolutely. Smoked trout is a lovely, slightly milder alternative and works exactly the same way. Salmon offcuts are also cheaper than slices and perfect here, since you’re cutting it into pieces anyway.
What do you serve with courgette cake?
It’s brilliant three ways: sliced small at apéro with a glass of chilled rosé, packed for a picnic (it travels well and holds at room temperature for hours), or in thicker slices for lunch with a green salad and a spoonful of crème fraîche.
Courgette Cake Smoked Salmon
Prep Time 20 minutes 
Cook Time 40 minutes 
Total Time 1 hour 
Servings 6Description
Ingredients
- 300 gr courgettes
- 1 tsp salt for draining courgettes
- 1 shallot
- 150 gr smoked salmon cut into strips or small pieces
- 3 eggs
- 120 gr plain flour
- 7 gr baking powder
- 60 gr unsalted butter
- 100 ml whole milk
- 80 gr Gruyère cheese or Comté, grated
- 1 tbsp dill optional
- 1 pinch nutmeg
- salt and black pepper
Instructions
1. Cook the courgettes
- Coarsely grate the courgettes. Heat a tablespoon of oil in a frying pan over medium heat, add the shallot, and cook for 2 to 3 minutes until softened. Add the courgettes, season lightly with salt, and cook for 10 to 12 minutes, stirring occasionally, until tender and most of the water has evaporated. Set aside to cool. Don't skip this, it's what stops the cake going soggy.
2. Prep the loaf pan and oven
- Grease a loaf tin generously with butter and line the bottom with parchment. Heat the oven to 180°C (160°C fan).
3. Mix the wet ingredients
- Whisk the eggs and milk together. Add the melted butter (cooled slightly so it doesn't scramble the eggs) and whisk until smooth.
4. Add the dry ingredients
- Whisk in the flour and baking powder until smooth and thick, with no lumps. Season with black pepper and nutmeg. Go easy on the salt, the salmon and cheese are salty.
5. Fold in everything else
- Add the cooled courgettes, salmon, cheese and dill. Fold gently with a heat-resistant spatula until just combined. Don't overmix, you want distinct pieces of salmon and flecks of dill. The batter will be thick and chunky.
6. Bake
- Pour into the tin, smooth the top, and bake for 40 minutes, until golden and a skewer comes out clean. If it browns too fast, cover loosely with foil for the last 10 to 15 minutes.
7. Cool and serve
- Cool in the tin for 10 minutes, then turn out onto a rack. Serve warm, at room temperature, or cold, sliced thickly.
Notes
- Flour amount: This recipe uses 120g flour for a moist texture. If you prefer a firmer cake, increase to 150-180g flour.
- If you’re not a fan of dill, you can replace it with fresh chives.
- Offcuts smoked salmon are cheaper and work brilliantly here since you’re cutting it up anyway. Smoked trout is also a lovely alternative.
- Make ahead: Bakes perfectly the day before. Keep covered at room temperature or in the fridge. Also freezes brilliantly, slice first, wrap well, freeze for up to 3 months.
- This cake is gorgeous with a crisp green salad dressed with vinaigrette and also brilliant for picnics as it travels well and doesn’t need refrigeration for a few hours.
Share your feedback and spread the love!
If you try this recipe, I’d love to hear how it turns out! Leave a ★★★★★ rating and your thoughts in the comments, it helps fellow French foodies discover this recipe too. Snap a photo and tag @obviously.french on Instagram. Come talk about it in our Facebook group. And don’t forget to save this recipe to Pinterest so you’ll always have it handy for your next French-inspired meal!
